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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.